Zeroing in SLT. A few quick updates:
High Sierras status: done
We are officially out of the High Sierras. I sent home the last of the heavy winter gear, hopefully not needed again on this trip. Fingers crossed, we'll get through the Cascades before we're battling the snow again.
Also, went across Donahue Pass in a hail storm. At one point, the the hail was the size of marbles, and broke the glasses of the woman behind me. I kept my hat on, and head on. There but for the grace of God...
Entering Desolation Wilderness
We are now hiking contiguously with the Tahoe Rim Trail, which I hiked with BR and Leila in 2008. On the trail, we met Renee who has been a wonderful trail angel. She, her husband Mark, and her son Dane have welcomed us into their home in an incredible show of hospitality. Congratulations to them and their 30th anniversary.
Up next: Northern California
We really need to turn up the miles for the next few months, or we'll be hiking in snow near Canada. We had a sobering planning session where we determined that we will need to average 22mi/day to finish in time. That said, don't worry, Mom, I'll be home for Thanksgiving.
And, special shout out to the Spicer-Utgoffs, and Megan who will be joining us next Saturday in Sierra City.
Showing posts with label sierras. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sierras. Show all posts
Monday, July 26, 2010
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
VVR & the Fish Fry
Midway through the High Sierras, we stopped in for a break at Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). VVR is just before Silver Pass for northbounders, and is seen as a welcome oasis of civilization. Gangles and I hiked some long days beforehand, fueled by lack of food (i.e., urgency), and the promise of cell phone reception. We hiked a 21, and then a 24 into Mono Creek, where we camped next to the bridge. Across the bridge is the 1.5mi spur trail to the bank of Lake Edison, where the VVR ferry picks up twice per day. We were aiming for the morning ferry, which required a late night of hiking.
We hiked up and down Bear Ridge as the sun was setting, then stumbled around in the dark for another hour or so looking for a camp site. My secret plan was to walk all the way to the bridge, which was a long 24mi day. On the way, we saw a campfire, and like moths to a flame, drifted over automatically. We met some sweet JMT sobos, who were happy to share with us.
The next morning we caught the morning ferry to VVR. We spent a great day and afternoon at VVR, enjoying the hospitality of Jim, Byron, Annie, Olive, Indiana, Ben, and the rest of the staff at VVR. I also reread one of my favorite books, Louis Sachar's young adult classic, "Holes". Since then, I've been seeing God's Thumb everywhere.
We had planned to take the afternoon ferry out the next day. Around 2pm, I ran into William, a Lt. in the SF Police force. He was up at VVR with his son, Christian, and his friends to fish the fantastic trout lakes and creeks in the High Sierras. We chatted about SF, the PCT, and fishing, and he spontaneously invited us to a fish fry he was having the evening.
Though we have strict hiking plans, I though a fish fry would be a welcome inducement to stay the night. Jim let us stay another night, and we (BR, Moosie, Gangles, Sexy Vermin, Lady LNT, Wide Angle and Wounded Knee) went over to William's cabin with three pies and a few six packs of beer. We weren't sure what to expect, but here's what we got: fresh trout steamed with tarragon, trout wrapped in lavash and roasted, marinated lamb chops, roasted corn, and s'mores (courtesy of the master chef Christian). And that's just the food. The conversation and company were great--we learned about the SF trolley system, Armenian food, abalone fishing, the latest on the Bachelor and Bachelorette series, etc.
An amazing night, with amazing people. We owe a tremendous thanks to William, Jose, Christian, Andres, Jacques, and the rest of the bay area crew. And, if you're ever looking for a wedding DJ or photographer, let me know. I have a solid recommendation for you.
We hiked up and down Bear Ridge as the sun was setting, then stumbled around in the dark for another hour or so looking for a camp site. My secret plan was to walk all the way to the bridge, which was a long 24mi day. On the way, we saw a campfire, and like moths to a flame, drifted over automatically. We met some sweet JMT sobos, who were happy to share with us.
The next morning we caught the morning ferry to VVR. We spent a great day and afternoon at VVR, enjoying the hospitality of Jim, Byron, Annie, Olive, Indiana, Ben, and the rest of the staff at VVR. I also reread one of my favorite books, Louis Sachar's young adult classic, "Holes". Since then, I've been seeing God's Thumb everywhere.
We had planned to take the afternoon ferry out the next day. Around 2pm, I ran into William, a Lt. in the SF Police force. He was up at VVR with his son, Christian, and his friends to fish the fantastic trout lakes and creeks in the High Sierras. We chatted about SF, the PCT, and fishing, and he spontaneously invited us to a fish fry he was having the evening.
Though we have strict hiking plans, I though a fish fry would be a welcome inducement to stay the night. Jim let us stay another night, and we (BR, Moosie, Gangles, Sexy Vermin, Lady LNT, Wide Angle and Wounded Knee) went over to William's cabin with three pies and a few six packs of beer. We weren't sure what to expect, but here's what we got: fresh trout steamed with tarragon, trout wrapped in lavash and roasted, marinated lamb chops, roasted corn, and s'mores (courtesy of the master chef Christian). And that's just the food. The conversation and company were great--we learned about the SF trolley system, Armenian food, abalone fishing, the latest on the Bachelor and Bachelorette series, etc.
An amazing night, with amazing people. We owe a tremendous thanks to William, Jose, Christian, Andres, Jacques, and the rest of the bay area crew. And, if you're ever looking for a wedding DJ or photographer, let me know. I have a solid recommendation for you.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Mt. Whitney & Lone Pine
Greetings from Lone Pine, CA! We hiked off trail to Kearsarge Pass, and down to the Onion Valley campground. We're enjoying a zero today, for our sanity and for some much needed laundry.
We are partway through the High Sierras, a region contemplated with awe and fear by most PCT hikers. The high point of the PCT, Forester Pass (elev. ~13,100) and the highest point in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney (elev. ~14,500) are back to back in this section. Accordingly, we have cut mileage back. Prior to this, we were regularly hiking 20-25 miles per day. (This was arduous, but doable).
Some have told us (running over to interject into personal conversations) that it is impossible to hike 20s in the Sierras. For the record, we have hiked a 21. But, we're planning on keeping mileage low to enjoy, and to welcome the latest addition to our crew, Ken The Pick. Ken is Leila's stepdad, and earned his trail name through his superior dental hygiene, i.e., he chews a flosser non-stop, even up and down snow-covered passes.
Whitney was spectacular. We climbed from the JMT side, spending two nights at Crabtree Meadows. The plan: day hike to Guitar Lake, and then up Whitney. What actually happened: Gangles and I never actually saw Guitar Lake.
We caught up somewhere short of Guitar Lake (5m) away, but lost the trail in the snow. After 45m of bushwacking, rockhopping and plowing through snow fields, we ended up 300' above the trail, between Guitar Lake and the trail to Whitney. We dropped down to the trail, filled our hydration bladders are started up.
The last time I went up Whitney, it was in full moonlight at the tail end of our '07 JMT summit. As a person with a profound fear of heights, this summit was more harrowing because I could see how far I could fall. Gangles and I powered up the 10 switchbacks, crossing a few rapidly melting, but still slick snow fields. After 3.5h of leisurely climbing, we made it to the summit.
We ate the last of our high calorie snacks (mostly almonds), and two-timed it down because of the encroaching rain clouds. We made it down in ~2 hours to the trail to Guitar Lakes.
Here's where it went awry. Since we never took the trail between Whitney and Guitar Lakes, we had no idea how to get down. We ended up bushwacking for an additional 3h from the beginning of the switchbacks down to Timberline. This is highly discouraged--and a complete violation of LNT principles. We were completely lost, and wandering in pristine, untracked wilderness. The trip back was harrowing, including some steep boulder fields, soft snow, and very fast water.
That said, it was also exceptionally beautiful and memorable, because we were in the High Sierras.
Also, I have sent home the ice axe and crampons in a fit of frustration and hubris. We'll see if this is was a bad (read: fatal) mistake in the next few days. I did this based on two reasons: first, the rangers have been saying they are unnecessary. Second, they are really heavy. My pack is quite heavy now, and I'm taking the trade-off of agility versus grip.
So many people to thank, but special shout outs:
Food:
- Nelda's in Lake Isabella, CA for the best milkshakes ever
- Merry Go Round in Lone Pine, CA for quality Chinese food
Outfitter:
- Elevation in Lone Pine, CA for being a great outfitter
- REI in Lancaster, CA staffed by former PCTers
Rides & Trail Angels:
- Okie Girl at Walker Pass
- Jamie from Kearsarge to Independence, CA
- John and Tom from Mountain Mesa
- Mike from Santa Monica
We are partway through the High Sierras, a region contemplated with awe and fear by most PCT hikers. The high point of the PCT, Forester Pass (elev. ~13,100) and the highest point in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney (elev. ~14,500) are back to back in this section. Accordingly, we have cut mileage back. Prior to this, we were regularly hiking 20-25 miles per day. (This was arduous, but doable).
Some have told us (running over to interject into personal conversations) that it is impossible to hike 20s in the Sierras. For the record, we have hiked a 21. But, we're planning on keeping mileage low to enjoy, and to welcome the latest addition to our crew, Ken The Pick. Ken is Leila's stepdad, and earned his trail name through his superior dental hygiene, i.e., he chews a flosser non-stop, even up and down snow-covered passes.
Whitney was spectacular. We climbed from the JMT side, spending two nights at Crabtree Meadows. The plan: day hike to Guitar Lake, and then up Whitney. What actually happened: Gangles and I never actually saw Guitar Lake.
We caught up somewhere short of Guitar Lake (5m) away, but lost the trail in the snow. After 45m of bushwacking, rockhopping and plowing through snow fields, we ended up 300' above the trail, between Guitar Lake and the trail to Whitney. We dropped down to the trail, filled our hydration bladders are started up.
The last time I went up Whitney, it was in full moonlight at the tail end of our '07 JMT summit. As a person with a profound fear of heights, this summit was more harrowing because I could see how far I could fall. Gangles and I powered up the 10 switchbacks, crossing a few rapidly melting, but still slick snow fields. After 3.5h of leisurely climbing, we made it to the summit.
We ate the last of our high calorie snacks (mostly almonds), and two-timed it down because of the encroaching rain clouds. We made it down in ~2 hours to the trail to Guitar Lakes.
Here's where it went awry. Since we never took the trail between Whitney and Guitar Lakes, we had no idea how to get down. We ended up bushwacking for an additional 3h from the beginning of the switchbacks down to Timberline. This is highly discouraged--and a complete violation of LNT principles. We were completely lost, and wandering in pristine, untracked wilderness. The trip back was harrowing, including some steep boulder fields, soft snow, and very fast water.
That said, it was also exceptionally beautiful and memorable, because we were in the High Sierras.
Also, I have sent home the ice axe and crampons in a fit of frustration and hubris. We'll see if this is was a bad (read: fatal) mistake in the next few days. I did this based on two reasons: first, the rangers have been saying they are unnecessary. Second, they are really heavy. My pack is quite heavy now, and I'm taking the trade-off of agility versus grip.
So many people to thank, but special shout outs:
Food:
- Nelda's in Lake Isabella, CA for the best milkshakes ever
- Merry Go Round in Lone Pine, CA for quality Chinese food
Outfitter:
- Elevation in Lone Pine, CA for being a great outfitter
- REI in Lancaster, CA staffed by former PCTers
Rides & Trail Angels:
- Okie Girl at Walker Pass
- Jamie from Kearsarge to Independence, CA
- John and Tom from Mountain Mesa
- Mike from Santa Monica
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Forester Pass
Forester Pass was the first major pass in the Sierras part of the PCT. Our trip up was by turns eventful, stunning, stressful and incredible.
We camped a few miles shy of the pass (~3mi), and made our way up early in the morning. The trail was relatively clear until the foot of the steep climb switchbacked up the South side.
Side note: We did see a pair of marmots chasing each other through the rapidly clearly ridge nearby. Cynics and people who decry anthropomorphization may disagree, but I think it was marmot love.
We stopped to catch our breath at the base of the rugged looking pass. The switchbacks were snowed over, and the trail was neither visible nor intuitive. We pulled out our ice axes, and went the hard but direct way, straight up, scrambling up the boulders. Fortunately, we were there early enough in the morning, that the snowpack was still solid enough for a safe scramble. About 80% of the way up, we found a clear switchback and went up the rest of the way on the trail.
The trail to the top of the pass was relatively clear, with the exception of one deep snow chute, which flooded my body with adrenaline. Not looking to the left, I sidled across, ice axe in hand. Another 100' of switchbacks, we were at the highest point on the PCT.
A round of congratulations, and a kazoo serenade from Moosie and BR (Battle Hymn of the Republic) later, we started our descent.
The quickest (and most fun) way down, was a full glissade down, maybe 100'-200'. (I'm bad at estimating height--this is a great trait in a thruhiker; it's like being a cornerback with a short memory). I put on rain pants, cocked my ice axe, and took the quickest ride down I've ever had.
The rest of the day was fairly grueling--post-holing through the snow up to the Kearsarge Pass trail, and the side junction out to Onion Valley.
So, in short: first major pass down; fingers crossed for more snow melt.
We camped a few miles shy of the pass (~3mi), and made our way up early in the morning. The trail was relatively clear until the foot of the steep climb switchbacked up the South side.
Side note: We did see a pair of marmots chasing each other through the rapidly clearly ridge nearby. Cynics and people who decry anthropomorphization may disagree, but I think it was marmot love.
We stopped to catch our breath at the base of the rugged looking pass. The switchbacks were snowed over, and the trail was neither visible nor intuitive. We pulled out our ice axes, and went the hard but direct way, straight up, scrambling up the boulders. Fortunately, we were there early enough in the morning, that the snowpack was still solid enough for a safe scramble. About 80% of the way up, we found a clear switchback and went up the rest of the way on the trail.
The trail to the top of the pass was relatively clear, with the exception of one deep snow chute, which flooded my body with adrenaline. Not looking to the left, I sidled across, ice axe in hand. Another 100' of switchbacks, we were at the highest point on the PCT.
A round of congratulations, and a kazoo serenade from Moosie and BR (Battle Hymn of the Republic) later, we started our descent.
The quickest (and most fun) way down, was a full glissade down, maybe 100'-200'. (I'm bad at estimating height--this is a great trait in a thruhiker; it's like being a cornerback with a short memory). I put on rain pants, cocked my ice axe, and took the quickest ride down I've ever had.
The rest of the day was fairly grueling--post-holing through the snow up to the Kearsarge Pass trail, and the side junction out to Onion Valley.
So, in short: first major pass down; fingers crossed for more snow melt.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Kennedy Meadows
Checking in from Kennedy Meadows. We've added Ken to the roll of hikers for this stretch. We'll have him for the next few weeks, which is going to be great.
We are also halfway through a double zero--letting the snow melt and wishing BR a happy birthday.
In other news, Em and I have done our first 300 miles, including two 25s, and a few 20s. We're finally getting our trail legs.
Miss you all.
p.s., On the same animal-packed day, I saw 3 rattlesnakes and a bear. One rattler was furious, and attacking a pine branch when we came upon it. We let it slither away, and it climbed up a tree so it was at eye level with me. I walked a big circle around it.
We are also halfway through a double zero--letting the snow melt and wishing BR a happy birthday.
In other news, Em and I have done our first 300 miles, including two 25s, and a few 20s. We're finally getting our trail legs.
Miss you all.
p.s., On the same animal-packed day, I saw 3 rattlesnakes and a bear. One rattler was furious, and attacking a pine branch when we came upon it. We let it slither away, and it climbed up a tree so it was at eye level with me. I walked a big circle around it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)